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Information Page for the Proto-B Project Board

Click here for pictures of the Jenmat Proto-B Board

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Technical Information:

OUTLINE SIZE: 2.210" X 4.01". Outer dimesions are +/- 0.15.

MATERIAL: FR-4, CLAD 1/2 OZ copper, HAL SN63 (solder) finish. Solder mask is LPI. All holes are plated-thru.

GRID HOLE SPACING: 0.100"

GRID HOLE DIAMETER: .037"/.039"

PAD SIZE: .070" X .070"

PAD GAP: .015"

MOUNTING HOLE SIZE: For #2 hardware. Hardware holes are plated-thru.

SUPPORTED HOLES: 100% - All holes are plated-thru.

SMT SOCKET (see supported components below).

SUPPORTED COMPONENTS:

Most Thru-hole components (leaded) with lead diameters up to 0.036".

Multiple SOIC (narrow)/SSOP, flatpaks with pins on .050 centers, up to 48 pins (24 each side)

DIP, WIDE DIP with lead spacing of 0.100 or integer multiple thereof.

SMT chip devices 0402, 0603, 0805, 1008, and 1210 (skip a pad). Some other sizes may fit as well.

Headers and sockets with 0.100" lead spacing

Planar-Mount parts (use backside 0.070" x 0.070" pads)

Commonly asked questions about the Jenmat Proto-B boards:

Q: What is the board used for? Is it different from other "perf" boards?

A: The Proto-B board is used for assembly of projects you want to keep. While components can be soldered and unsoldered, you should use these boards when you are building a circuit that you want to be reliable and last. The main difference between the Proto-B boards and other "perf" boards is the PLATED-THRU HOLES, and the QUALITY. Considerable time and effort is spent on "proto" circuits, and components can be expensive.

Q: OK, why do I need higher quality and plated-thru holes?

A: When you are building a project that you want to look professional, or that requires reliability, nothing makes the solder joints stronger and more reliable than plated-thru holes. Each hole is a "tunnel" that is plated with copper, and coated with solder. When you solder parts into the holes, the solder joints are exceptionally strong. Solder installation is much easier.

Plated-thru holes connect the topside pads to the backside pads electrically. This has two advantages. First, the pads are much more resistant to lifting. Lifted pads (copper peels off) are the curse of the cheap proto board. Pads usually start lifting when you desolder a component, or use too much heat/pressure during installation of a part.

The second advantage is that the pads on one side of the board are connected to the bottom. This allows both sides of the board to be used. I like to bridge pads on the bottom to make traces, and use the topside for components only. This makes your project look very professional, and is easy to rework. By the way, the Proto-B boards have traces around the edge of the board that are connected in "fives" (five holes connected together). These strips are designed to make life easier when you are routing ground or Vcc around the circuit.

Once you solder on a good-quality plated-thru board, you'll never want to use the cheap stuff again. By the way, like all decent quality circuit boards, Jenmat Proto-B boards are coated with solder (hot-air leveled), leaving them bright and very easy to solder, even after long periods of storage. Only the cheapest boards designed for hobbyists are bare copper.

Q: Will my old soldering iron work? What solder should I use?

A: Yes, most irons will work. If you are thinking of buying a new iron, always look for temperature-controlled irons. The ideal temperature for soldering most boards is 600F. I like the Weller WCTP series stations because they are economical and will last a lifetime for most hobbyists. They seem to last 5-8 years in industrial settings. Weller tips are stamped on the bottom with "6" for 600F, "7" for 700F etc. For general assembly, use SN60 (60/40 tin-lead) SN62 or SN63. Use rosin flux for hand soldering. Most decent quality solders have rosin flux in the core, which should be enough. If you can, try and find real SN62 or SN63 that carries the QQ-S-571 marking. Look for type RMA flux on the label. Type RA flux is good if you have access to professional cleaning equipment, and if you don't use stranded wire. By the way, avoid solder and flux fumes. Solder in a well ventilated area. Wash your hands with hot water and soap after touching solder, boards or electronic parts. They are coated with lead!

Q: Where can I learn more about solder workmanship?

A: Find a copy of MIL-STD-2000 or IPC-610. MIL-STD-454 isn't bad for beginners but has limited guidance for SMT parts.

Q: Any other tips?

A: For even better results, BAKE your board before you solder! It sounds crazy, but it is an accepted practice in the assembly industry to pre-bake boards. You can use your oven at home. Set it to 250F (about 125C) and place the board on a non-stick cookie sheet*. Allow 3-4 hours on the middle shelf. Make sure your kitchen is well ventilated or it will smell like circuit boards. Don't worry, it won't burn. These temperatures are chosen becuase they are just above the boiling point of water. Baking boards removes moisture and makes them more resistant to the heat of soldering. This practice really helps beginners who tend to overheat the boards with the soldering iron.

* do NOT use this cookie sheet for food again - circuit boards contain lead.

Our supplier doesn't use cookie sheets! click here to see where boards get baked at our factory in Taiwan. To learn more about our supplier, click here.

Q: Where can I send suggestions for the next Proto-B board revision?

A: Please email suggestions to sales@jenmat.com. By the way, the next version of the board will accomodate WIDE SOIC chips up to 20 pins, and maybe 24! We are also considering placing the "postage stamp" socket on the backside of the board. What do you think?

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